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	<title>The Blog of Samia Serageldin</title>
	<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</link>
	<description>The thoughts of Samia Serageldin.</description>
	<dc:language>en</dc:language>
	<dc:creator>ramy@thecairohouse.com</dc:creator>
	<dc:rights>Copyright 2012</dc:rights>
	<dc:date>2012-05-18T19:48:49</dc:date>
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		<item rdf:about="http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=284&amp;c=1">
		<title>The Egyptian Feminist's Dilemma: Mona Eltahawy</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=284&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-04-29T17:33:45</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:s&#97;mia&#64;t&#104;ecairo&#104;o&#117;&#115;&#101;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">284@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>
&#8216;Why Do They Hate Us?&#8221; Egyptian-American writer Mona Eltahawy laments on the cover page of Foreign Policy, in an article illustrated by provocative photos of a naked woman painted to look as if she were wearing niqab. Who are the &#8216;They&#8217; and who are the &#8216;Us&#8217; referred to in the ...</description>
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&#8216;Why Do They Hate Us?&#8221; Egyptian-American writer Mona Eltahawy laments on the cover page of Foreign Policy, in an article illustrated by provocative photos of a naked woman painted to look as if she were wearing niqab. Who are the &#8216;They&#8217; and who are the &#8216;Us&#8217; referred to in the title of Eltahawy&#8217;s piece? She claims, in her many television interviews since the publication of the piece, that her intention was to turn the 9/11 mantra &#8216;Why Do They Hate Us?&#8217; on its head. But in fact, she subscribes to it. The &#8216;Us&#8217; she claims to speak for are Arab/Muslim women, but the &#8216;They&#8217; accused of hatred are the same: Arab/Muslim men. In subscribing to that sweeping generalization, Eltahawy created a media controversy in the States but forfeited the support of a considerable segment of the women she purports to champion.<br />
It is easy to understand and sympathize with ElEltahawy&#8217;s bitterness and disillusionment: a vocal supporter of the January 25th Revolution in Egypt, she was assaulted sexually and had both her arms broken by riot police during a demonstration in Cairo. But Eltahawy&#8217;s article is a blanket condemnation, not only of the tactics of the riot police under Mubarak and his loyalists; not of a misogynist interpretation of Islam pushed by an extremist sect called Salafis; not even of regressive attitudes toward women arguably prevalent, especially among the less educated, in the Middle East. <br />
Eltahawy&#8217;s generalization tars all men in the Muslim/Arab world with the same harsh brush, as if the riot policeman stripping a female protester were indistinguishable from the young man trying to protect her. She ignores the experience of thousands of Egyptian women who camped side by side with men in Tahrir Square day and night during the heyday of the revolution, without being subjected to harassment or intimidation.<br />
With similar lack of distinction, she makes sweeping generalizations about all Arab countries, as if Saudi Arabia, the only country where women are not allowed to drive and are forced to wear a niqab, were indistinguishable from Tunisia, where policewomen direct traffic. <br />
Eltahawy selects the worst instances of abusive laws or practices from each country and throws them indiscriminately into her quiver of accusations: for instance, the abhorrent practice of female circumcision is still common in parts of Egypt, but it is a Nilotic practice, not an Islamic one, and is unknown in the Muslim country most repressive against women: Saudi Arabia. On the other hand Egypt and most Arab countries enforce a minimum age of sixteen for marriage for girls, whereas Saudi Arabia does not. <br />
By wielding her weapon so bluntly and indiscriminately, by making the same mistake Western feminists have historically made in trying to disassociate the &#8216;Oriental&#8217; woman from her context, Eltahawy risks alienating the support of the women she may sincerely be trying to champion. A woman does not exist in a vacuum; she is a mother, daughter, wife, sister; she is a Muslim or an Arab. There are claims to her loyalty other than gender.  At a time in history when her sons or brothers are indiscriminately branded as potential terrorists for being Arab or Muslim, she will shrink from comforting those dangerous stereotypes by subscribing to an equally reductionist diatribe against them as misogynists; at a time when wars are being waged, or threatened, against Arab and Muslim-majority countries partly with the justification of &#8216;saving women&#8217;, these same women fear the consequences of such reasoning.  <br />
But perhaps the most misguided aspect of Eltahawy&#8217;s indiscriminate attack in &#8216;Why Do They Hate Us?&#8217; is that it leaves the women&#8217;s rights movement in these countries with nowhere to go. If feminists in Arab and Muslim-majority countries are to gain the full measure of rights and liberties for women, they will need to enlist the support of a sizeable segment of the male population, not antagonize it wholesale. Women&#8217;s rights cannot be imposed from outside, by marshalling public opinion in the West. Eltahawy&#8217;s courage and sincerity must be tested by the same measure as any feminist facing the same dilemma: by her efforts to change facts on the ground in Egypt, not by success in creating a media uproar in America.<br />
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<img src="http://www.foreignpolicy.com/files/fp_uploaded_images/120419_quote1.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<item rdf:about="http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=283&amp;c=1">
		<title>Egypt's Presidential Primaries: Everything at Stake</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=283&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-04-27T15:43:33</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:s&#97;&#109;&#105;&#97;&#64;t&#104;e&#99;&#97;&#105;r&#111;&#104;&#111;use.&#99;&#111;&#109;)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
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		<description>

Now that the Republican primaries in the U.S. have been decided in favor of Mitt Romney, and Nicolas Sarkozy and Fran&#231;ois Hollande are facing off in France, perhaps the most critical presidential &#8216;primaries&#8217; of all are being fought out in Egypt. Everything is at stake here, arguably not just for ...</description>
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Now that the Republican primaries in the U.S. have been decided in favor of Mitt Romney, and Nicolas Sarkozy and Fran&#231;ois Hollande are facing off in France, perhaps the most critical presidential &#8216;primaries&#8217; of all are being fought out in Egypt. Everything is at stake here, arguably not just for Egypt, but for the region and the world.<br />
The future of the Arab Spring hangs in the balance, with three possible scenarios: Egypt&#8217;s elections return a hardliner Islamist for president, setting it on the path of Ayatollah Iran, confirming the worst fears of the West; or the military re-asserts its role in the power balance, along the lines of traditional Turkish politics; or, in a case of Mubarak redux, an old regime loyalist is brought in to protect the interests of the beleagured business elite. <br />
In a region that has consistently demonstrated the validity of the mantra &#8216;as Egypt goes, so goes the Arab world&#8217;, the United States has vital interests, from Iraq to Israel; the run-up to the June-slated presidential elections is closely watched from Washington to Moscow. So it is intriguing that the process of elimination of candidates is taking place in the courts rather than at the polls.<br />
The explanation for the critical role of the courts lies in a constitution riddled with Mubarak-era amendments jerry-rigged to ensure, in effect, that no one but the former president, or his offspring, stood a real chance of running for president of Egypt. One such rule, excluding anyone convicted of any misdemeanor, even on blatantly political, trumped-up charges, was intended to disqualify Ayman Nour, who had dared to run against Mubarak. After the revolution, the same rule was applied to disqualify Muslim Brotherhood candidate Khairat Shater, jailed under Mubarak for his Islamist activities.<br />
Moreover, after the revolution, the Islamic-dominated new parliament voted into law new hurdles for presidential candidates, designed to exclude certain figures from the old regime or certain candidates it deemed too secular. On the one hand, Ahmed Shafiq, a Mubarak-era prime minister and the current military rulers&#8217; candidate-of-choice, was recently disqualified according to the new rule against any ancien regime top ministers running for president. On the other hand, it was with considerable schadenfreude that many saw the most radical hardliner among the Islamist candidates, Abu Ismail, a vociferous reviler of the Unites States, disqualified by the courts on a technicality: although born of Egyptian parents on both sides, his mother had become a naturalized American citizen at some later date.  <br />
But in this game of arbitrary court-decreed elimination, the &#8216;Mubarak redux&#8217; lobby was dealt a blow of its own, when the courts disqualified Omar Soliman, Mubarak&#8217;s long-time spy chief, top liaison official with Israel, and eleventh-hour vice-president in the final days before Mubarak&#8217;s resignation. Soliman was excluded from running for the presidency on a technicality involving a mere 31 votes, a blow to the military rulers of the country, who considered Soliman, himself a military man, one of them: he was never caught in the wide-ranging net of prosecution that swept up the major cabinet and business elite figures associated with Gamal Mubarak, and is widely believed to have retained much of his behind the scenes power.<br />
As have many of the old establishment, even those currently behind bars. Western observers who follow the trials of Mubarak, his sons and his loyalists focus on the &#8216;humiliation&#8217; of &#8216;the cage&#8217;, as they call the traditional dock with bars, ubiquitous in Egypt and in some European countries. What Egyptians are more likely to note are the obsequious salutes with which these Mubarak politicians are greeted by the policemen assigned to guard them as they enter the courthouse, a clear sign that these men in white prison garb still wield power to be reckoned with, even behind bars, and that they have the tacit protection of the military rulers of the country.<br />
So in the run-up to the June election, as one candidate after another is knocked down by the courts on a technicality, schadenfreude is short-lived, and new candidates pop up in their place: the relatively moderate Muslim Brotherhood and the fundamentalist Salafis are already fielding new candidates in place of their first choices, whereas the &#8216;secular-liberal&#8217; movement is left with nothing but compromise options. <br />
The first choice of the young revolutionaries and most liberals would have been Nobel Prize winner Dr. Baradei, but he has refused to throw his hat in the ring, opting instead for the rather Utopian goal of building a new, progressive party that would be ready to contest free, fair elections next time around. That decision may partly have been dictated by his lack of popular appeal among a certain sector of the masses which suspects Baradei of American bias, ironically, given that he was anathema to the Bush administration for his obstructionist role as head of the U.N. Atomic Energy Agency in the run-up to the 2003 Iraq War. <br />
The compromise candidates before the secular liberals at the moment are narrowed down to two: Amr Moussa, former head of the Arab League and former Foreign Minister under Mubarak, but less tainted than he might be by this association on account of his reputation as an independent, nationalistic politician; and Abou El-Fotouh, a moderate former Muslim Brotherhood member who resigned from the party over his differences with them. <br />
But there is still over a month to go till the June elections, and typically skeptical Egyptians predict that the military rulers of the country will step in and pre-empt them. Recent demonstrations against just such a scenario have united a broad spectrum of the population, Islamist and secular, but there is yet another contingent of the electorate that would welcome a military take-over in the name of &#8216;a return to security and economic stability.&#8217; Meanwhile, the courts play an unpredictable game, disqualifying one candidate after another, and issuing equally arbitrary rulings in other cases: one of Egypt&#8217;s most popular comic actors was convicted on a charge of &#8216;insulting Islam&#8217; in his films, only to be exonerated of the self-same charge in an identical case. The power struggle between the different political currents in the country is playing itself out in the courts, and if that is any indication, this will be a hot election season in Egypt.<br />
<img src="http://www.ajc.com/multimedia/dynamic/01371/AMR103_1371268l.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><img src="http://www.ajc.com/multimedia/dynamic/01371/AMR103_1371268l.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<item rdf:about="http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=282&amp;c=1">
		<title>The Crazy Woman is Back: Egypt's Social Rift</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=282&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-03-28T11:37:01</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:&#115;&#97;&#109;i&#97;&#64;&#116;he&#99;&#97;i&#114;o&#104;ous&#101;.&#99;&#111;m)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">282@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>The crazy woman is back. You hear her shouting on the street in front of the building, early in the morning and at sunset, ranting yells as indecipherable as an infant&#8217;s existential angst. I never see her, only hear her; I don&#8217;t know how she survives. For several months there ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[The crazy woman is back. You hear her shouting on the street in front of the building, early in the morning and at sunset, ranting yells as indecipherable as an infant&#8217;s existential angst. I never see her, only hear her; I don&#8217;t know how she survives. For several months there was no shouting, she was off the street; I only realized it when she came back, the way you only realize your tooth had stopped aching when it starts acting up again. I wonder where she had gone to, why she was back.<br />
The street is in an upscale neighborhood of Cairo, but in Cairo proper, even in the best neighborhoods, the comfortable are not insulated from the poor; it has always been that way. In this city, the poor and the affluent cross each other a hundred times a day with easy mutual acceptance and civility. Residents of this neighborhood of embassies and banks share the sidewalks with doorkeepers, servants, delivery boys, shopkeepers, unofficial parking attendants, street vendors; high and low exchange a second-nature calibration of greeting according to status.<br />
So, when the revolution broke out, there was some relief that it had not morphed into what is called here &#8216;a revolution of the hungry&#8217;, in which mobs stormed the villas and high-rises. Only in the new suburbs of October 6th and Qattameya were the gated communities obliged to hire armed guards to protect the villa dwellers from intruders. In Cairo proper, it was felt, that was not necessary. <br />
But lately there has been an alarming up-tick in &#8216;drive-by&#8217; purse-snatching, even in the most privileged neighborhoods. This scenario is typical: the robber sweeps by on a motorcycle with missing license plates, targets an elderly woman, swoops down on her, snatches her handbag, spilling her onto the sidewalk in the process, and speeds off. The modus operandi is ingeniously adapted to a congested traffic pattern where cars have zero maneuverability in narrow streets but motorcycles or bicycles can thread their way between the cars and zigzag in and out. The typically elderly victims of these drive-by raids often sustain broken bones as well as the theft of their purses.<br />
Almost everyone, by now, personally knows of someone who has been the victim of a purse-snatching or a car-jacking. People avoid traveling at night now; they are more suspicious of strangers. It&#8217;s not that there are more thieves or kidnappers, some people sigh, only that before they were afraid of the long arm of the police state. On the contrary, diehard supporters of the revolution counter, the breakdown in order is a plot by the disaffected security forces to create a rising sense of panic that will strengthen the &#8216;law and order&#8217; &#8211;read military- lobby at the polls in the upcoming presidential elections. Both viewpoints are correct, at least partly. <br />
The presidential election in June looms as an uneasy deadline; some frustrated liberals are threatening to boycott the ballot boxes, rather than be faced with a non-choice between various shades of Muslim Brotherhood candidates. The MB wants a president &#8216;with them but not of them&#8217; went the mantra, until they started to speak of fielding their own candidate. And in any case, bewildered citizens object, on what basis can you elect a president, when the constitution that will define his powers, retroactively, has not yet been written?<br />
Meantime, the strategy of the ruling council seems to be to keep the citizenry off balance with rumors and counter-rumors, periodic shortfalls of gas, and setting Egyptians against each other over soccer matches. The Islamist-dominated Parliament, rather than focus on alleviating the crisis in unemployment and the economy, is playing diversionary politics by threatening to &#8216;clean up&#8217; satellite television stations.<br />
But there are many in the business community who, although wary of the Muslim Brotherhood, find reassurance in the fact that leading members of the Brotherhood themselves are known for being some of the most successful business men in the country. The most optimistic of these observers count on the military to guarantee security and the Brotherhood to foster business; &#8216;in five years, in ten years, we&#8217;ll be Turkey,&#8217; one highly successful businessman assured me. <br />
He could be whistling in the wind. More serious than the &#8216;lapses in security&#8217; are the signs of an ugly rift tearing apart the social fabric just where it should be strongest: philanthropy. Philanthropists who had devoted a good part of their lives to charitable organizations are finding themselves under attack by the very people they had served. In one case, a group of women, both Coptic Christian and Muslim, who had successfully and tirelessly worked for years to bring electricity, water, and schools to a dirt-poor Coptic-Muslim village, find themselves resented and unwelcome by the very community that had benefited so tangibly from their efforts. <br />
In another instance, a woman in her seventies who had devoted her entire life to running an orphanage that had been the 100-year-old legacy of her grandmother, and who had taken abandoned baby girls off the streets- raised them, found them employment, gave them a home till they married, and helped them set up house when they did- this elderly lady now finds herself accused in court of abusing the girls and turning them out into the street to become prostitutes. Her shock and disillusionment is so great the philanthropist now goes about like a bewildered shadow of her former self. <br />
More callous observers assign this &#8216;biting the hand that feeds&#8217; to unsuspected reserves of class resentment or to the effect on easily manipulated minds of a daily barrage of corruption expos&#233;s in the media. Whatever the case, it is a sign that the time-honored understanding that lubricated social interchange in the country, and provided for the needs of the least privileged, is breaking down. Take the case of the crazy woman who shouts in the street early in the morning and at sunset.   <br />
Apparently she had worked for a resident of the building once, and when that lady died, the woman could not be rehired because of her mental instability. At some point she had been sent to an asylum, but was so ill-treated there she found her way back on the street, and from then on relied on the kindness of strangers. I have never seen her, but someone who knows her tells me she survives on ample handouts of food by the denizens of the neighborhood basements and garages: doorkeepers, chauffeurs, servants of the villas and high-rises, restaurant waiters. Periodically, some kind soul in one of the apartment buildings reels her in for a bath and a fresh set of clothes, and releases her back on the street.  <br />
Why she disappeared for several months is a mystery that, like much in Egypt, is dismissed with a shrug if you ask the question. Perhaps someone took her in for a while; or perhaps someone got fed up with her mindless ranting and sent her away to an asylum again. Either way, the crazy woman is back on the street, yelling her existential angst to pained if tolerant ears. That is Egypt.<br />
<img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JPPtC6-Hbps/T3MuZBZyKwI/AAAAAAAAAF8/Qd2g8G6XYik/s1600/Munch's+Scream.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<item rdf:about="http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=281&amp;c=1">
		<title>The Dead Pope Rises: Coptic Conundrum in Egypt</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=281&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-03-20T13:18:27</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:s&#97;&#109;&#105;a&#64;th&#101;&#99;a&#105;r&#111;h&#111;u&#115;&#101;&#46;&#99;&#111;m)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
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		<description>

The death of Pope Shenouda, spiritual head of Egypt&#8217;s Coptic Church for four decades, threw millions of Copts into mourning, and was marked by the Egyptian government as a state funeral, attended by top political authorities and the Muslim religious establishment, as well as foreign dignitaries. Copts were given an ...</description>
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The death of Pope Shenouda, spiritual head of Egypt&#8217;s Coptic Church for four decades, threw millions of Copts into mourning, and was marked by the Egyptian government as a state funeral, attended by top political authorities and the Muslim religious establishment, as well as foreign dignitaries. Copts were given an official three day holiday in which to mourn, and thousands took the opportunity to besiege the cathedral where Pope Shenouda&#8217;s body was displayed in state, first lying in a coffin, and then, as if risen, propped up on a throne, in his most magnificent robes and miter, looking peaceful, if ashen and close-eyed. Such was the crush to catch a last glimpse of their ninety-year-old spiritual leader that two elderly Copts suffocated to death in the crowd.<br />
While the heads of the Azhar, Islam&#8217;s oldest university and religious authority, paid their respects, and many Muslims called their Coptic friends to offer condolences, Egypt&#8217;s Sunni Muslim majority followed the proceedings with awe and curiosity. There is no equivalent figure to the pope as spiritual leader in Sunni Islam, which, in this respect, is more akin to Protestantism. The head of the Azhar University, the highest religious authority in the land, commands considerable but by no means universal influence, and is regarded by many as a political appointee, with supporters and detractors. Nor is he seen as representing his Muslim countrymen, whereas the Coptic Pope has come to represent his coreligionists. His funeral would be a simple affair not much different than that of any other Muslim: the body washed and wrapped in white cloth and buried as rapidly as possible, on the same day or the next. The burial would be followed, within a day or two, by visits of condolences held in one of the major mosques of the city, at which one and all would be free to stop by and present their respects to family and close friends. Typically, men would receive in one part of the mosque and women in another.<br />
If the spectacle of the deceased pope risen and sitting up in a bishop&#8217;s chair riveted Egyptians to their screens, the election of a new pope is similarly shrouded in exotic ritual. The council of bishops casts votes amongst themselves, and the names of the three top-polling candidates are placed in a box, from which a child draws one name, presumably under divine guidance; the bearer of that name becomes the new pope. The late Pope Shenouda the third was himself the second-ranked candidate in his election. <br />
During his forty-year reign, Shenouda expanded the political power of his office to become a national figure, claiming to represent the Coptic community vis-&#224;-vis both the Egyptian regime and foreign governments, while tolerating little in-house dissent among Copts. He oversaw the exponential growth of the Coptic Orthodox church in America, and in general reached out ecumenically to other churches as well as to the Islamic establishment. Popular in Egypt among many Muslims as well as Copts for certain patriotic stances, he fell afoul of Sadat and was exiled for four years in the Natron Valley Monastery in Egypt&#8217;s Western desert, where he was buried today. On the other hand, he consolidated his relationship with Sadat&#8217;s successor so that, at the time of the revolution, his diehard pro-Mubarak stand put him at odds with the younger generation of his base, who saw the deposed regime as complicit in the sectarian conflict it exploited to justify its draconian police state. <br />
Dying at the ripe age of nearly ninety, after a long reign that spanned Nasser to post-Mubarak, Shenouda III leaves the Coptic community to ponder the succession and the conundrum of his legacy: the expanded role of the Coptic pope. If he is not only the spiritual head of his community but also its &#8216;national&#8217; representative, does this not marginalize the Coptic community? At a time of the rise of Islamist parties in the Egyptian parliament, does this not exacerbate the danger of a polarization of the two communities? And given the extent to which personality shapes politics, will Shenouda&#8217;s successor have the clout and charisma to negotiate Egypt&#8217;s treacherous political waters today? <br />
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<img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DO0ZNZzmVkE/T2i4iSEmHDI/AAAAAAAAAF0/ZUrVdCGdpaA/s320/Pope+Shenouda.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<item rdf:about="http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=280&amp;c=1">
		<title>Notes from a Fragmented Egypt:Bedouin to Bikinis</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=280&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-02-17T14:23:45</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:&#115;&#97;&#109;ia&#64;&#116;&#104;e&#99;airo&#104;o&#117;se.&#99;&#111;m)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">280@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>

It is hard to paint a coherent picture of today&#8217;s Egypt from the inside; you experience daily life and news items as a fragmented reality. Things are not following apart, the center holds, but centrifugal forces pull at the periphery of this once brutally centralized state. The &#8216;Arabs of the ...</description>
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It is hard to paint a coherent picture of today&#8217;s Egypt from the inside; you experience daily life and news items as a fragmented reality. Things are not following apart, the center holds, but centrifugal forces pull at the periphery of this once brutally centralized state. The &#8216;Arabs of the Sinai&#8217;- the Bedouin tribes- are on the warpath, their long-term vendetta with Mubarak&#8217;s police forces breaking out into open hostilities, effectively shutting off the Sinai to tourists and Egyptians alike. It sounds like an atavistic throwback to the era of the historian Jabarti, who wrote a chronicle of Bonaparte&#8217;s invasion of Egypt in 1789: Jabarti describes the citizens of Cairo fleeing the city ahead of the French forces, only to be driven back by the menace of the Bedouin outside the city walls, waiting to plunder and attack them. So it is today in Cairo, once the safest city of its size anywhere; you will hear people say that central Cairo is safe, but the outlying areas are vulnerable to carjackers and highwaymen.<br />
That was very much on my mind last week as, in a hurry to return to Cairo from the Mediterranean coast, we took the shortcut through the 200 kilometer Natron Valley, an unpopulated stretch of desert where you might not cross another vehicle for hours in the high season of mid-summer, let alone in the dead of winter after dark in these fearsome days of insecurity. Given the risk of carjacking or even a flat tire without a gas station or emergency vehicle in sight, we were luckier than I realized to make it through the Wadi Natron.<br />
Once we rejoined the Cairo-Alexandria Desert Road I breathed a sigh of relief, took my foot off the accelerator, and stopped at the nearest rest house, Omar&#8217;s Oasis, an old-fashioned restaurant whose main attraction are the fragrant loaves baked to order in a traditional Egyptian bread oven, in full view of the diners. As I walked into the restroom, the attendant handed me a few sheets of toilet paper, and smiled at me as she adjusted her headscarf: &#8220;Happy Valentine&#8217;s Day!&#8221; <br />
It seemed so incongruous a greeting, from such a seemingly unsophisticated person, in such unpromising surroundings. But that&#8217;s Egypt today: a jigsaw puzzle where the pieces refuse to fit.<br />
St Valentine&#8217;s is a recent importation in Egypt, where it is known as the Festival of Love, but the younger generation of urbanites has taken to it with gusto. Now there are gloomy predictions of: &#8220;This will be the last St Valentine&#8217;s to be celebrated in Egypt; once the Muslim Brotherhood take control, they will abolish all such Western &#8216;decadent&#8217; festivities.&#8221; Whether or not this proves to be the case, it is shocking to compare the mores of Egypt in 1963 with those of 2012, half a century later. A 1963 newspaper advertisement for a new resort at Gamsa features two women in tiny bikinis; it is a measure of how far Egypt has regressed from modernity that today, such an ad would be unthinkable. Although women in bikinis do still stroll the beaches of most of the private resorts on the Mediterranean coast and all the tourist beaches of the Red Sea, it is becoming increasingly common to see women bathing in &#8216;Islamic&#8217; dress.<br />
The Muslim Brotherhood claim they will double tourism, without resorting to bikinis or alcohol, but this wishful thinking is met with skepticism and derision by their many critics. <br />
And that is perhaps the most hopeful sign left in today&#8217;s Egypt: the critics of the Brotherhood and of the Military are many and fearless. The genie let out of the bottle on January 25th refuses to be stuffed back into the black hole that was the police state.<br />
<img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s320x320/429758_307804609267281_171480932899650_883810_1766862096_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Egypt's Soccer Ultras: Revolution Gone Wrong</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=279&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-02-02T08:49:32</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:s&#97;&#109;ia&#64;&#116;h&#101;c&#97;iro&#104;o&#117;&#115;&#101;.&#99;&#111;m)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">279@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>

Today, February 4th, is the anniversary of the so-called &#8216;Battle of the Camel&#8217;, the decisive turning point of the Revolution of January 25th, when the peaceful democracy protesters in Tahrir were able to beat back a vicious onslaught by pro-Mubarak thugs who attacked them on horseback. A week later, Mubarak ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<br />
<br />
Today, February 4th, is the anniversary of the so-called &#8216;Battle of the Camel&#8217;, the decisive turning point of the Revolution of January 25th, when the peaceful democracy protesters in Tahrir were able to beat back a vicious onslaught by pro-Mubarak thugs who attacked them on horseback. A week later, Mubarak resigned. Part of the credit for the push-back against the Mubarak forces went to the &#8216;ultras&#8217;, as the most extreme soccer fanatics are called in Egypt, akin to England&#8217;s infamous &#8216;football hooligans.&#8217;<br />
Today, a year later, the soccer ultras are being blamed for a massacre on a football field in the town of Port Said on the Suez Canal; but the real question is, who put them up to inciting a riot? And the even greater outrage now debated in the extraordinary session of Parliament and everywhere in Egypt is this: why did the security forces stand by while Egyptians killed Egyptians? Why the lapses in security from the beginning, not only in the case of this soccer match, but in several suspicious incidents over the past week, and indeed the past month?<br />
In the minds of even the least conspiracy-minded of Egyptians, one answer is inevitable: at the very moment when there is the most pressure to abrogate the loathed &#8216;emergency laws&#8217; under which Mubarak ruled for thirty years, and now the SCAF rules with complete unaccountability- at that very moment, the incidents of suspicious random violence are multiplying. It is hard to escape the conclusion that the climate is being created in which the SCAF can claim that the people are fed up with the insecurity in the country and are calling for a return to the heavy-handed tactics of the police and the military. <br />
Writing about the Nasser era in my first novel a decade ago, I had said that in Egypt, soccer rivalries replaced party politics in a country with a monolithic single-party regime that prohibited any expression of political opinion. In today&#8217;s post-revolutionary Egypt, the airwaves buzz with political debate and party politics are hotly contested at the ballot box and in the media. But at what price freedom? How do you explain the spectacle of Egyptians killing each other on a soccer field for no apparent reason? One year from the day when outrage against the thuggish tactics of the Mubarak loyalists united Egyptians behind the protesters in Tahrir Square, united them young and old, Muslim and Copt, secular and religious, ultras and ulamas; one year from that hope-filled day, Egypt&#8217;s Revolution seems to have gone terribly wrong.<br />
<img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F6WSukDD6ac/TyqTSwa_iNI/AAAAAAAAAFk/91I6f1u6Kiw/s320/Soccer+massacre.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Tahrir Today, January 25, 2012</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=278&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-01-25T13:16:57</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:&#115;am&#105;&#97;&#64;t&#104;&#101;&#99;a&#105;&#114;oh&#111;&#117;se.&#99;o&#109;)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">278@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>Tahrir Today, the first anniversary. I was there, along with so many people I met whom I knew, famous writers, major businessmen, doctors, professors. An immense crowd, at least as big as February 4th, and the same spirit: determined but cheerful and peaceful. Men, women and children, many young people, ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[Tahrir Today, the first anniversary. I was there, along with so many people I met whom I knew, famous writers, major businessmen, doctors, professors. An immense crowd, at least as big as February 4th, and the same spirit: determined but cheerful and peaceful. Men, women and children, many young people, a diverse crowd, from all walks of life, from the most privileged to the most underprivileged; many secular young liberals, no harassment of women in spite of the dense crowd. The Muslim Brotherhood, if they were there, kept a low profile. No checking of I.D.'s. The difference from a year ago: the chants of "Down with the rule of the Military!" instead of "Down with Mubarak!" Actually, the word used, "Askar" is closer to "Militia." <br />
<img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s320x320/427643_10151208712905444_658830443_22732172_792733282_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>The Egyptian Revolution First Parliament</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=277&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-01-25T13:13:39</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:s&#97;m&#105;a&#64;&#116;&#104;ecair&#111;&#104;&#111;&#117;&#115;e.&#99;o&#109;)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">277@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>Egypt&#8217;s Revolution : First Anniversary, Part I

So you had a revolution&#8230;and now, you have the first democratically-elected parliament in sixty years. Today was the day when the new parliament was seated, and all of Egypt watched the spectacle in the hemi-circle parliament hall as newly-elected candidates stood up to take ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[Egypt&#8217;s Revolution : First Anniversary, Part I<br />
<br />
So you had a revolution&#8230;and now, you have the first democratically-elected parliament in sixty years. Today was the day when the new parliament was seated, and all of Egypt watched the spectacle in the hemi-circle parliament hall as newly-elected candidates stood up to take the oath of office- or didn&#8217;t. One presumably Salafi representative tried to put his own spin on the oath, which requires him to respect the republican system and the constitution. He was finally prevailed upon to read the oath as written, and the proceedings carried on smoothly from that point on.<br />
So what does this new post-revolution parliament look like? As expected, there was a predominance of Muslim Brotherhood, stocky men in business suits, their facial hair neatly trimmed; but also the typical thin, long-bearded fundamentalist Salafis in robes; also a sprinkling of exotic men in red fezzes and odd dress, presumably Sufis. Then there were the sleek, clean-shaven representatives from the liberal parties, and the de rigeur fifty percent quota of &#8216;peasants and workers&#8217;, as per the existing constitution. Women were few; a cluster of them sat together front and center, in a rainbow of pastel hijabs: mauve, pink, blue.  <br />
For the liberal movements, as for the young revolutionaries who paid the price for this free election with blood and tears, the spectacle is bitter-sweet. They paid the price but saw the prize seized by the Islamist currents that had initially sat out the protests. But a young artist I spoke to yesterday at the opening of an exhibition at a gallery in Zamalek seemed to be optimistic. I was arrested by his large-scale painting of a woman lying on the ground, violated and near-naked, pain and dignity in her face; next to her on the ground were a riot police helmet and truncheon. The message was clear: the woman in the painting stood for all the women assaulted by the police and army since the revolution began.<br />
<br />
The young artist in a black beret, an activist member of the new Tahrir Party, was not worried. &#8220;The Muslim Brotherhood will have to be pragmatic in office- the problems they are facing, economic especially, are so huge in scale that they will need all the allies they can get to spread the responsibility around. And in a year or two, at the next elections, we&#8217;ll be ready. We&#8217;ll claim our revolution.&#8221;<br />
 <br />
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<img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s320x320/401257_10151205006240444_658830443_22722756_879174991_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Cairo through Bifocals, Dimly</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=276&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2012-01-12T12:28:26</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:&#115;&#97;mi&#97;&#64;&#116;&#104;e&#99;&#97;ir&#111;house.&#99;o&#109;)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">276@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>It's rather disconcerting, being in Cairo these days. I imagine it must be like looking through bifocal glasses: close up, daily life carries on as usual, the social and cultural calendar as busy as ever; but in the bigger picture, every day brings 'fresh alarms', and the current crisis in ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[It's rather disconcerting, being in Cairo these days. I imagine it must be like looking through bifocal glasses: close up, daily life carries on as usual, the social and cultural calendar as busy as ever; but in the bigger picture, every day brings 'fresh alarms', and the current crisis in the country is the sole topic of conversation, whether at dinner or lunch invitations; over tea on the Marriott Promenade; trying out new flavors of macaroons at the competing patisseries in Zamalek (mango at Fauchon and Earl Grey at Tortina); strolling around gallery exhibition openings; at book launches; power-walking around the jogging track at the Gezira Club.<br />
<br />
There is a sense of an impending crisis to mark the milestone first anniversary of the January 25th Revolution. There are those who predict popular outrage if Mubarak is let off his trial without a guilty verdict, but almost no one who expects the actual death penalty called for by the prosecutor, and even fewer who would condone it.<br />
Conspiracy theories are encouraged by the seeming collusion between the Scylla and Charybdis of the Muslim Brotherhood and the Military. At a book discussion yesterday attended by the author, Bahaa Taher, whom I'd met when sharing a panel a couple of years earlier, that was the scenario that dominated the discussion. Taher himself in no way underestimated the strength, organization, and professionalism of the Muslim Brotherhood, but he warned against taking their ostensibly moderate views at face value, recalling their history of international ambitions and ulterior motives. As for the Salafis, as one woman shuddered, "what they would like to establish in Egypt is Saudi Arabia without the oil."<br />
There is some self-reproach but a great deal of frustration among women like her- the educated, privileged, secular elite- about their inability to compete with the Muslim Brotherhood in offering the kind of social services- educational, medical- that have bought the MB their support at the voting booth.<br />
Meantime, life carries on in Cairo, but the outlying provinces, and especially the highways leading to them, are riskier to venture into. The Sinai in particular; St Catherine's Monastery, once a tourist mecca for international and Egyptian visitors alike, is a ghost town.<br />
Ominously, the best and brightest young people, those with the most expensive educations and international experience, are starting to leave the country. But it's hard to blame them, when the latest scandal in the domestic media is the shocking political brainwashing cropping up in this year's middle school mid-term exams: "Write an essay on the great role played by the Supreme Military Council in recent events," runs one essay topic. "Write a letter of congratulations to the Muslim Brotherhood Party on their electoral victory," runs another. "Conjugate: the Revolutionaries have destroyed the country," runs a grammar exercise.<br />
<br />
January 25th risks being the day the idealists of a year ago come back to Tahrir one more time to take back their revolution.<br />
<img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igR8UC3r7Sc/Tw8Wq83DbuI/AAAAAAAAAFU/75kMFpLpy6E/s320/P1010632.JPG" border="0" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Tahrir Today; Cairo Revisited</title>
		<link>http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php?p=275&amp;c=1</link>
		<dc:date>2011-12-26T15:18:00</dc:date>
		<dc:creator>samia (mailto:&#115;a&#109;i&#97;&#64;&#116;heca&#105;&#114;o&#104;&#111;use&#46;com)</dc:creator>
		<dc:subject>General</dc:subject>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">275@http://thecairohouse.com/blog/index.php</guid>
		<description>
The day before, there had been thousands of people demonstrating against the brutal stripping and beating of women protesters at the hands of the Military Police.  But on Saturday, when I went to Tahrir Square for the first time since March of this year, it was quiet and somewhat ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<br />
The day before, there had been thousands of people demonstrating against the brutal stripping and beating of women protesters at the hands of the Military Police.  But on Saturday, when I went to Tahrir Square for the first time since March of this year, it was quiet and somewhat bedraggled: tattered flag banners ringed the remnants of a tent city served by makeshift stands selling tea or roast corn on the cob. Of the people lounging around, not all looked like young protesters; there were some older men in farmer garb and some who looked like homeless vagrants. There wasn't a policeman in sight, but car traffic circled around the square unimpeded under the direction of Tahrir civilian volunteers.<br />
Earlier that week clashes had resulted in several deaths and scores of injured demonstrators calling for an end to the military power grab and an immediate transition to civilian rule. It must be a bitter irony to the young liberals who spilled their blood for that cause that those who stood to gain most by their sacrifice- the Islamist parties- had been conspicuously absent from the struggle. A transition to civilian rule would inevitably mean handing over power to a parliament dominated by the Muslim Brotherhood who, together with the Salafis as a junior partner, have won the first two rounds of elections by a landslide.<br />
There is that sense in Egypt today, of a revolution hijacked, gone awry. Some people shake their heads, speak of a lost generation, of emigration, if not for them, then for their children. Things will get worse before they get better, they say.<br />
The anxiety over the economic crisis is the most acute and pervasive. A stark case in point is the Mena House Oberoi, the landmark hotel where world leaders once held meetings against the stupendous backdrop of the Giza pyramids. I had lunch there today, and it was sadly empty of guests: the vast expanse of hotel reception rooms and restaurants with their gorgeous Mamluke-style wood paneling and coffered ceilings, the pools, the annexes under construction, all empty but for a handful of tourists. Seeing me look around nostalgically at the familiar landmarks of one of the fabled hotels of my youth, the eager-to-please staff offered to show me the Churchill suite; they hope against hope for better days. But we all know that with some Salafi spokesmen spewing the most ignorant and prejudiced propositions imaginable on the media, the tourists were keeping away in droves.<br />
A final incident comes to mind. On the way to the hotel via the Pyramids Road, traffic was so bad that we decided to try an alternate route on the way back- the 6th October Axis bypass. In the middle of the fast-moving traffic on the busy highway, an accident occurred. The engine of the car involved was spewing smoke, and the man in the car looked in imminent danger of the engine blowing up. While we were trying to figure out how to call the police,  we saw a man on a passing bus leap off and rush to the aid of the trapped motorist, smashing the window to open the jammed car door. Hard on his heels came two other rescuers. All three of the Good Samaritans sported the typical Islamist beard.<br />
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